Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
